Champions of indigenous textiles, exquisite craftsmanship, and breathtaking jewels, Indian princesses have long left their mark on global fashion history. With emeralds the size of pigeon’s eggs, opulent Schiaparelli gowns, and saris woven with pure gold, luxury for these royal women was in a league of its own. However, beyond their immense wealth, it was their impeccable taste and distinctive style that set them apart. While Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur remains a well-known icon, her predecessors were just as bold in redefining fashion, challenging traditional norms, and inspiring women in an era when customs like the purdah system prevailed. Here, we explore the legacy of India’s maharanis, their timeless elegance, and their influence on designers, heritage brands, and global fashion publications.
1.Princess Karam of Kapurthala (1915- 2002)
The sari made a striking appearance in the pages of Vogue Paris in April 1935, listed among the season’s grand couture influences. The issue references an “Indian princess who spends the day with us,” accompanied by a black-and-white illustration of a woman draped in a Schiaparelli taffeta coat threaded with gold—evoking the essence of the sari with a pallu-like hood. On the facing page, another illustration showcases a chiffon gown embroidered in metal by Alix (Madame Grès), inspired by the draping of a sari.
It’s likely that the Indian princess mentioned in this issue was Princess Karam of Kapurthala, who had captivated couturier Elsa Schiaparelli during the summer of 1934 when she arrived in Paris draped in a sari (The Sari in Paris Fashion: 1910 to 1940 by Jaya Misra). This moment seemingly inspired Schiaparelli’s 1935 collection, Stop, Look and Listen, which featured intricately draped evening gowns. One particular black rayon design with pink and yellow embroidered borders gained popularity, even retailing at Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S. (The Impact of Traditional Indian Clothing on Italian Fashion Design from Germana Marucelli to Gianni Versace). Echoes of this influence remain today—Schiaparelli’s website currently features a red hooded gown, described as “Inspired by reveries of the young Princess Karam of Kapurthala’s beautiful sari.”
With her impeccable fashion sense and striking features, Princess Karam became a muse in both Indian and European fashion circles. American Vogue recognized her as a “continental legend,” photographing her in a series of portraits over the years. Whether adorned in a traditional sari with exquisite jewels or draped in a luxurious black silver fox coat with emeralds and diamonds, she exuded effortless grace. She was a loyal patron of top-tier French couturiers, including Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Paquin, Coco Chanel, and Jeanne Lanvin (Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India by Angma Dey Jhala), leaving an indelible mark on the world of high fashion.
2.Princess Brinda of Kapurthala (1890- 1962)
Princess Brinda of Kapurthala, described as “strong-minded and imperious” in Maharani: Memoirs of a Rebellious Princess, was a captivating figure in 1920s and 30s Parisian society. Known for her dazzling jewels—Vanity Fair marveled at her emeralds “the size of walnuts"—she effortlessly blended European fashion with royal elegance. Despite personal struggles, including societal pressure to produce a male heir, she remained unapologetically herself. In a playful moment, she revealed that a massive emerald ring she wore was fake, laughing, “People think it’s real. They can’t believe a maharani would wear a fake.”
3.Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar
Princess Brinda’s daughter, Indira Devi, was a true trendsetter, pioneering the use of French chiffon for saris—a choice that revolutionized Indian fashion. Her influence can be seen in iconic Bollywood moments, from Sridevi in Chandni to Alia Bhatt in Rocky Aur Rani Ki Prem Kahani. At the time, chiffon was associated with lingerie, making her decision bold and unconventional, yet she remained unfazed, cementing floral chiffon saris with silver or gold borders as her signature.
A fashion connoisseur, Indira Devi was also a devoted patron of Salvatore Ferragamo, ordering over 100 pairs of custom shoes, including green velvet heels adorned with pearls and black velvet pumps with a diamond buckle. Historian Angma Dey Jhala notes that she collaborated with French textile maker Monsieur Erigua and Sarees Inc. in Paris to introduce European fabrics to Indian fashion, further solidifying her legacy as a sartorial icon.
4.Maharani Sanyogita Devi of Indore (1914- 1937)
With one hand on her hip and an unwavering gaze, Maharani Sanyogita Devi exudes confidence in her portrait by Bernard Boutet de Monvel, capturing attention even before her vibrant green nauvari sari does. Married to Yashwant Rao Holkar, the couple shared a love for luxury, commissioning exquisite art-deco paintings and furniture, later showcased at Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 2020.
In another striking portrait, she stuns in a white satin Madeleine Vionnet dress, cinched at the waist with an embellished buckle, paired with an emerald and diamond necklace by Mauboussin—a look as timeless as any seen on today’s Cannes red carpet (The Sari in Paris Fashion: 1910 to 1940 by Jaya Misra). The chic duo embraced European elegance while seamlessly blending it with Indian fashion, making them icons of style in both Parisian high society and their homeland.
5.Maharani Chimnabai II of Baroda (1872- 1958)
Chimnabai of Baroda possessed an exceptional eye for jewels, amassing a collection that included treasures once owned by Russian grand dukes. During her trips to Europe, she was always accompanied by an Indian craftsman or Baroda’s senior court jeweler, ensuring her purchases not only reflected refined taste but also enriched India’s gem trade (Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India by Angma Dey Jhala). A regular at Cartier, she even invited Jacques Cartier to Baroda in 1911, marking the beginning of the brand’s long association with her royal lineage.
Her regal presence was striking, as described by a visiting reverend: “She carries her head so proudly and gracefully that she appears taller than she is. A white silk sari shot with gold drapes over her exquisite figure, revealing ankles circled with pearls and bare feet as beautifully kept as her hands. Around her neck, emeralds as large as pigeons’ eggs and a chain of priceless pearls cascade from her shoulders to her waist.”
6.Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda (1917 – 1989)
Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda had an unmatched passion for jewels—so much so that she once sold a pair of emerald and diamond anklets to renowned jeweler Harry Winston. A regular at Van Cleef & Arpels, she often had royal family gems reset by the French luxury house whenever she visited Paris.
Her most famous commission came in 1950, when she tasked Jacques Arpels with creating the Hindu necklace using stones from the Baroda treasury. Weighing over 150 carats, the masterpiece featured 13 Colombian teardrop emeralds, with a central lotus motif surrounded by delicate leaves and petals—a true symbol of opulence and artistry.
As we celebrate the lasting legacy of these fashion trailblazers, it’s important to remember the significance of preserving and innovating upon our rich cultural heritage. If you too have a passion for creating or embracing timeless beauty, we invite you to join Kimora Fashion Pvt Ltd. Be part of a brand that values both tradition and contemporary style, combining craftsmanship, elegance, and innovation to bring the best of Indian fashion to the world.
Let’s make history together.